If you’re learning embroidery digitizing or looking to improve your stitch quality, one of the most vital aspects to grasp is Understanding Underlay Stitches. These hidden stitches may not be visible in the final design, but they play a huge role in ensuring stability, clean edges, and smooth surfaces in every embroidery project. Think of them as the foundation of a building invisible yet essential for strength and durability.

In this article, we’ll explore what underlay stitches are, why they matter so much, and how different types can dramatically improve your embroidery results. Whether you’re a hobbyist or a professional digitizer, mastering underlay will take your designs to the next level.

What Are Underlay Stitches in Embroidery?

Underlay stitches are a layer of stitching applied to the fabric before the main top stitches are embroidered. Their purpose is to stabilize the fabric, reduce distortion, and create a smoother surface for the top threads to sit on.

Without proper underlay, your embroidery design can pucker, shift, or lose its shape especially on stretchy or textured fabrics. Underlay provides structure and prevents those common issues.

In simple terms, underlay stitches prepare the groundwork for your embroidery making sure everything else that follows stays neat, consistent, and beautifully stitched.

Why Are Underlay Stitches So Important?

Even though underlay stitches are not visible in the finished design, they make a massive difference in how your embroidery looks and feels. Here’s why they’re so important:

1. Stabilizes Fabric

Underlay secures the fabric, preventing it from stretching or moving while the top stitches are applied. This ensures clean outlines and consistent fills.

2. Adds Volume & Dimension

For satin and fill stitches, underlay adds lift and texture, making the design appear more vibrant and defined.

3. Prevents Puckering

Especially on lighter or more flexible fabrics, underlay helps distribute tension evenly, keeping the design flat and smooth.

4. Enhances Stitch Quality

A well-digitized underlay ensures your top stitches lay perfectly no gaps, unevenness, or unwanted overlaps.

5. Improves Durability

Embroidery with proper underlay lasts longer, even after repeated washing and wearing, because it’s more structurally sound.

The Main Types of Underlay Stitches

Not all underlay stitches are created equal. Different fabrics and stitch types require specific underlay techniques. Let’s break down the most common types used by digitizers:

1. Edge Run Underlay

Edge run underlay stitches run along the edge of the design area, right inside the border of the shape. This type helps define clean, sharp outlines for satin and column stitches.

Best for: Lettering, borders, and designs requiring crisp edges.

2. Zigzag Underlay

This underlay runs in a zigzag pattern across the area before the top stitches. It helps lift the top thread off the fabric, adding density and smoothness.

Best for: Satin stitches, thick fabrics, and designs that need a raised appearance.

3. Center Run Underlay

A simple underlay running down the center of a satin column or filled shape. It’s mainly used to tack down the fabric without adding bulk.

Best for: Lightweight fabrics and small text.

4. Tatami (Grid) Underlay

Tatami or lattice underlay is a grid-like pattern laid down beneath fill stitches. It provides strong stabilization over larger areas and keeps top stitches uniform.

Best for: Large filled areas and soft or stretchy fabrics.

5. Combination Underlay

In more complex designs, digitizers may combine two or more underlay types (like edge run + zigzag) for optimal coverage and texture control.

Best for: Complex logos, 3D puff embroidery, and multilayered designs.

Choosing the Right Underlay for Your Fabric

Each fabric reacts differently under the needle. The trick is to match the right underlay type to the fabric’s texture and stretchiness.

Matching your underlay to the fabric type ensures stability, reduces thread breaks, and gives your embroidery a professional finish.

Common Mistakes Digitizers Make with Underlay

Even experienced digitizers sometimes overlook underlay details, leading to issues in production. Here are a few mistakes to avoid:

1. Skipping Underlay Entirely: Without underlay, designs lose stability and definition.
2. Using Too Much Underlay: Overdoing it adds unnecessary bulk and stiffness.
3. Wrong Type of Underlay: Each fabric and stitch type requires a specific approach.
4. Incorrect Stitch Density: Too dense or too loose underlay affects the final appearance.
5. Ignoring Fabric Stretch: Failing to consider fabric behavior often leads to puckering.

A smart digitizer adjusts underlay settings based on material, hoop tension, and design complexity.

Pro Tips for Perfect Underlay Stitches

To master Understanding Underlay Stitches, you need both practice and a strategic mindset. Here are some expert tips:

• Preview Your Underlay: Most digitizing software (like Wilcom or Hatch) lets you view underlay layers before stitching. Always check them visually.
• Use Proper Stitch Lengths: Aim for underlay stitch lengths between 2.0mm and 3.0mm for optimal tension.
• Don’t Overlap Too Much: Overlapping underlay with top stitches too closely can create density problems.
• Adjust for Fabric Movement: Add extra zigzag or tatami underlay for stretchy materials.
• Test Stitch Every Time: Always run a test before final production, especially on new fabrics.

Underlay Settings in Popular Digitizing Software

Different digitizing programs have unique tools and settings for underlay. Here’s a quick overview:

• Wilcom: Offers detailed control over underlay type, density, and stitch angle.
• Embird: Simple interface, suitable for adjusting underlay in smaller designs.
• Hatch: Great for beginners with visual underlay previews and automatic suggestions.
• Pulse Tajima DG: Professional-level control for commercial embroiderers, especially on complex designs.

Learning how to fine-tune these settings helps you create designs that look polished and professional every time.

Why Mastering Underlay Makes You a Better Digitizer

Underlay is one of the most overlooked skills in embroidery digitizing but it’s also one of the most powerful. Once you understand how underlay affects stitch behavior, fabric movement, and visual appeal, you can create designs that not only look good on screen but also stitch perfectly on the machine.

Great underlay work means fewer thread breaks, smoother surfaces, and consistent results across different materials. It’s what separates amateur digitizers from true embroidery professionals.

Final Thoughts

In embroidery, the beauty of a design lies not only in its colors or creativity but also in its foundation. Mastering Understanding Underlay Stitches helps you create stable, smooth, and durable designs that hold up over time. Whether you’re stitching a simple monogram or a detailed logo, your underlay choice can make all the difference between average and exceptional results.

And if you ever want to save time or ensure your designs are digitized with flawless underlay settings, Digitizing Buddy is here to help. Their expert team understands the fine art of stitch foundations, delivering perfectly digitized embroidery files that stitch cleanly and beautifully on any fabric.